The welcoming hostess, Maria, invites patrons to settle in for a slow-food experience, with everything made to order by her chef husband. Gianni, who cooked for years in Rome, serves up an evening that is delightfully Old World—and with great passion. Forest Hill regulars converse at favourite tables in one of two simple rooms, sampling the chef’s northern Italian heritage in such creations as Tagliolini delle Langhe ($22.95), an ancient Piemontese pasta dish featuring truffled cream sauce and porcini mushrooms. Eleven antipasti ($8.95–$19.95), including signature Caprino alla Gianni e Maria (goat cheese with orange slices and arugula), are followed by 13 pastas (all homemade, some whole wheat and egg free) and four risottos. Choose one of five sauces—pomodoro, bolognese, funghi, gorgonzola, mixed seafood—to coat impossibly light gnocchi ($16.95– $20.95). As for secondi, a page each is devoted to carne ($16.95–$28.95) and pesce ($20.95–$29.95). Some of Gianni’s “exotic” dishes, such as whole stuffed partridge for two, require advance ordering. Seductive desserts include heart-shaped ice cream dipped in white and dark chocolate ($8.45). A five-page wine list of mainly Italian bottles is organized by region. Friendly, unassuming servers. Closed Monday.

Address: 794–796 St. Clair Ave. W., 416-652-3982.

Price Dinner for Two: $150
Patio: Yes
Open on Sunday: Yes
Neighbourhood: Forest Hill